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We got up at 4:15, determined not to be intimidated by Varanasi and went out on to the streets at 5 looking for a tuktuk man to take us to the main Ghat He picked up his friend on the way to the Ghat who was an over priced boat driver, scam. Haggled around for 5 mins before getting a reasonable price. The sun was coming up and everything was amazingly peaceful no beep beep beep “do you want rickshaw” “hey where you from” just tranquil. Amazing. Boat man was nice and pointed out all the different ghats, that is when we realized that we were dropped at the wrong ghat. (bastard tuktuk man). Rowed up to the main burning Ghat were we got off and had a tour. Saw seven fires going, some just finishing some just starting and some cooking. Stood 2 meters from a clearly cremated foot and another one with a hip bone still cooking, while breathing its fumes and having a conversation about how long it takes to completely cook a body. Not for the faint hearted. Got back in the boat and got dropped at the ghat we were originally meant to arrive at and had some breakfast with a great view. Varanasi conquered! Best day yet I believe and it’s still before 9am. From scared to sacred in 4hours. Got a 6 hour train journey at 1pm and apparently luggage has a tendency to go walkies on trains from Varanasi so getting some rest now to be on guard later.

Click on the Photo to see more of the Ganges
Ganges at Dawn
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  1. Matthew Pack (Reply) on Sunday-6, 2009

    wassup Jers – great great pictures of you both. Make sure you mail the best ones to thebigpicture@telegraph.co.uk and into other photo competition sites to win prizes :) http://www.flickr.com/groups/competition/

    sounds like you’re really settling in to travelling – takes a while – scammers will follow you for the next year – they always got us when we least expected in the end

    stay safe…


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