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So, exhausted, sweaty and smelly we got on a train to Ramaswaram. 15 minutes before it pulled out Jeremy realized that he had left the LP at the cake stand in the train station (stupid thing no.25) A quick sprint over the bridge through the morning commuters, grabbed the book and a sprint back. Holy Shit! The train is pulling out! Blind panic and sweat was pouring down face. VICTORIA! Where does this train go? Err Chennai. OMG Victoria is on the wrong train by herself with all our stuff with no money heading to the wrong place! More sprinting along side train shouting for Victoria confirmed that the train was empty and that I was looking on the wrong platform (stupid thing no.26). Found Victoria sitting (on the correct train) and gave her a big hug of relief. Phew. Now I fucking stink! The train was empty to start with, but then it started pulling out and suddenly a city of people all jumped on. 8 people on Victorias bench, 7 on Jeremy’s and a man over head in the baggage rack. 4 hours later we reached Ramaswaram. First impressions weren’t so good, tired hungry and with the sun beating down we refused to pay the tuktuk man his inflated price and walked the 2k into town. Real hot in these rhinoes! Eventually found a hotel, ate some bananas and crashed. Woke up for a walk out of town and down the beach front. This is more like it, fishermen drying their catches out side their huts and saying hi just to be friendly and no ‘Brits on Tour’. On our stroll back a fisherman invited us to eat fish in his hut. Decided what the hell and followed him and his oversized Machetti down a sandy path towards his village. At first we thought he was going to want money for the fish, then we thought he might want to stab us and take our money, then he started to try and sell us a boat ride for tomorrow, phew. We’re safe he only wants to scam us. His house was tiny (a small storage space was infact the master bedroom). We ate the fish and headed off before it got to dark. Bought a coconut monkey! Yeh Boi! And saw our first westerners. An old american lady and a Dutch counterpart. They had been through the temple and bathed for rs500 (max price is actually rs 50, we didn’t tell them).

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